The Milford Road
Welcome to GuidedBySam’s introduction to the Milford Road. Whether you are doing the drive in a day from Queenstown or starting from Te Anau, this commentary offers insights and information to make this journey much more than just a drive. Bringing to life, the spectacular drive to Milford Sound is the reason GuidedBySam was started.
Stunning Scenery
Tectonic uplift raising epic mountains, eroded by water and ice creating dramatic scenery around every corner. The ice ages have left their mark on the Milford journey from start to finish. There is so much more to see and learn when you know what to look at and with GuidedBySam GPS based commentary.
Wacky Wildlife
From the bizarre Takahē found in Te Anau (often compared to Dodo), to the charismatic Kea – considered one of the most intelligent birds in the world. There might even be dolphins, penguins or seals in Milford Sound. An array of endemic and native species waiting to be found.
Awesome Atmosphere
With over 200 days of rain culminating in a rainfall averaging 8-9 meters annually, makes Milford one of the wettest places on earth. Torrential Rain, then freezing snow and ice, followed by sunny days warm enough to be tropical. Each day the weather is unique and with it we meet a different Milford personality
The Journey to Milford is Epic. From Queenstown, in theory, it can be driven in 4 hours. In reality you want to leave 6 hours before your boat trip, giving plenty of time for must stop photo opportunities, traffic, roadworks, refreshments and to arrive at the boat terminal the recommended 45-60 minutes before you cruise departs. Ideally, you spend a night in Te Anau on the way, but if you are departing from Queenstown please give yourself as much time as you can. After all, it’s not everyday you get to visit the “8th Wonder of the World”
Your route is well travelled. An abundance of tour buses make a daily pilgrimage to Milford Sound as well as cars, campervans, motorbikes and even bicycles. Day trippers from Queenstown start early in the morning and return over 12 hours later having taken in the majesty of Milford. The boat cruise is an absolute highlight of the journey, but there is plenty to see and learn along the way even before you reach Te Anau. Including:
- The longest lake in New Zealand
- Rugged Mountain Peaks
- Slow growing Bog Pines
- History of venison farming
- The story of the takahē a bird thought to be extinct for over 50 years that sparked a 70 year conservation project.
The road to Milford is long and windy. You are encouraged to spend a night in Te Anau to break the journey and experience more of the Fiordland National Park. Getting to Milford Sound earlier, guarantees less people in your photos and likely means calmer conditions both for photographing Mirror Lakes and for your boat trip and a low stress day.
How early should you go? When I take groups to Milford, I have been known to leave Te Anau before 6am to beat the rush! If you are leaving Te Anau aim to catch an 11am boat. By 1pm the masses from Queenstown are arriving for the busiest afternoon cruises. Alternatively some companies offer slightly later cruises around 3pm in summer.
Allow time to fight with the car park ticket machines, the 10 minute walk from the car parking area to the boat terminal, time to check in (15 minutes prior) and time to take your first few photos of Milford Sound and Mitre Peak. Effectively you need to be arriving in Milford 30 minutes before your cruise. You would not be the first person to miss their cruise and often there are no later options due to boat timings and capacity. There is no point rushing this journey. At a minimum, I would want to be leaving Queenstown 5 hours before your cruise, but 5 and a half is more realistic, or longer if you are in a camper van or travelling slower.
In preparation for your journey, consider waterproof Jackets and warm layers. The boats have inside and outside areas. You want to be comfortable going outside and taking in the atmosphere. It is important to remember the climate in Milford is completely different to Queenstown and Te Anau with over 200 rain days a year. But don’t be put off, rain means more waterfalls, and indeed the rain is responsible for so much of the grandeur you are about to see.
Take food with you for the day – some boats sell some on board but many don’t. Take a wide angle camera lenses if you have one, and maybe a long lens in case you see seals, penguins or dolphins on the boat or spot the Kotuku/white heron on the walk to the boat terminal.
There may be some sandflies, but I don’t necessarily recommend you need insect repellent. While you are moving the bugs cannot keep up. On the boat they leave you alone and as a rule, long sleeves are enough to keep the worst off.
A good way to break up your journey starts with a coffee/toilet break in Garston after 1 hour. Then a further hour and a quarter gets you to Te Anau. A great place to stop the night, or stop for food and fuel before you take on the Milford Road. There are lots of great photo stops on the Milford Road including:
- Te Anau Downs (good on the way out)
- Eglington Valley
- Mirror Lakes
- Knobbs Flat (last flushing toilet)
- Cascade Creek (if Lupins are flowering)
- Lake Gunn
- Pop’s view (good on the way out)
- Christie Falls (good on the way out)
- Monkey Creek (chance to see Kea)
- Milford Valley lookout
- The Chasm (Longer stop)
- Tūtoko Bridge
Where you stop will depend on how much time you allow, the weather and your interests.
Planning your trip to Milford can take some thinking about, take your time and enjoy the ‘8th wonder of the world’.
I look forward to guiding you through this awesome journey and welcoming you to Milford Sound the northern most fiord of the Fiordland National Park.
Reasons to Spend Time in Te Anau
Te Anau Bird Sanctuary
Meet some of the sacred/taonga birds at the free lakeside aviary. including one of the world’s rarest birds the Takahē. As well as Kaka parrots, fantails, scaup, parakeets and more. This sanctuary is run by the Department of Conservation for rehabilitation, breeding and advocacy. They do incredible guided walks in the mornings for a nominal donation.
Te Ata Whenua – Shadowland
For 2 years, film makers travelled around the Fiordland National Park by helicopter taking in the incredible vistas. They came up with a 30 minute film, with no where to screen it. So the Black Dog Cinema and Bar was established and now shows Te Ata Whenua over 30 times a week in sold out theatres.
Hiking and Exploring
Lake Manapouri is a short 20 minute drive from Te Anau or a beautiful bike ride. Home of ‘Two Wee Bookshops’, New Zealand’s largest hydroelectric power dam, the sight of New Zealand’s first ecological protest and filming location for Season 2 of ‘Alone’ Australia. Or perhaps a day walk through the Fiordland National park on the Kepler Track through native beech forest.